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Men Hairstyle Biography

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What is the UNDERCUT? Do you ever say, "I'd like to shave my head, but still have long hair please?" No problem. Well, this is the undercut: shaved on the sides and long in the front hairstyle. Say what you will about it, truth is, it's got so many options, from super edgy, to toned down, from extravagant to office appropriate. It's so versatile and flattering on most face shapes that it's no wonder boys are getting it like crazy. Hell, women are chopping off their locks to get it, so there's definitely something going on about this cut.

Boys, if you have it, or you had it, kudos to you! But if not, what the hell are you waiting for? Or perhaps you feel it's ubiquitous -- hence boring? No such thing. Trust us. The Undercut is the shit. This is what we wish all our boyfriends looked like, and we know you can pull it off.

How To Do The Undercut?

If you're blessed with a good head of hair, I'd be a pity not to shave off your sides and leave your upper part longer.

If you've got a dapper style: sleek it back like those 1940s mobsters.

If you're a rock 'n' roll child: the sky's the limit super shaved on sides & sleeked back, or even disheveled, or side parted.

If you're more of a smart casual kinda guy, keep it simple: do the toned down version of it.

Sporty boy: take your pick

The point is, it will look fantastic and blend in your style regardless of it. You can go extreme on it, or keep it rather classic. You can wear your front hair as long as you want, sleeked back or not, side parted, and shave your sides as deep as you feel like it, or go gradual. Don't be afraid to have fun and experiment, it's only hair. It'll grow back.

GQ Barber Lounge

Men's Hair Design

And since we're talking fashion... here's some inspiration on what men should wear this winter.

If you've got a receding hairline, do not despair. Think David Beckham or Jude Law. Both have had this undercut and pulled it off brilliantly. So where there's a will, there's a way.

OK, I agree the undercut is perhaps overly present and every men and boy out there is getting it, from those famous faces to your best friend or neighbor. But sometimes, just sometimes, when such a cool trend comes along, you just have to say fuck it and jump on board. Scared you'll look like the rest, are you? Well that's why the Undercut comes with infinite style possibilities. See for yourself:Men of fashion began to wear short and more natural hair at the end of the 18th century, sporting cropped curls and long sideburns in a classical manner much like Grecian warriors and Roman senators. Before this period, a balding Louis XIII had made powdered wigs popular at the French court and consequently throughout Europe. The often elaborate and expensive gray wigs lent an air of wisdom and authority to their wearers.

William Pitt the Younger – Attributed to Thomas Gainsborough (c. 1804)

Prime Minister 1783 – 1801; Chancellor of the Exchequer 1804 – 1806

A scarcity of flour in 1795, combined with William Pitt’s attempt to raise revenue through a hair powder tax, brought the fashion for wigs and powder to a screeching halt. Men protested and a new more natural hair style became fashionable.

The Bedford Crop was a style of hair favored by the Duke of Bedford, who, in protest to the tax, abandoned his wigs in favor of a short cropped and unpowdered hairstyle. He challenged his friends to do the same. His natural looking crop was parted on the side with a dab of hair wax.

Pitt eventually reduced this unpopular tax on hair powder, which never quite generated the revenue he predicted, but by then it was too late. Gentlemen had discovered the comforts of going au naturel, and by 1812, few men still wore wigs. There were some holdovers – older men, military officers, and those in conservative professions such as lawyers, judges, physicians, and some servants for the very rich (footmen and coachmen) retained their wigs and powder. Formal court dress also still required powdered hair.

Beau Brummel’s Brutus hair style in 1805. Notice how it is brushed forward and volumized on top of his head.

By and large men took their cue from classical Greek and Roman art. The romantic movement also influenced a natural, unpretentious aesthetic. A dry disordered look that used very few artificial products began to rule. Beau Brummel’s influence cannot be discounted. His own grooming included shorter hair and a clean-shaven face. Every morning he examined his face in a dentist mirror and plucked any remaining stray hairs with tweezers. By 1813, almost all Regency men sported both long or short sideburns; they rarely wore mustaches or beards.

Colin Firth as Mr. Darcy. His rather long, wild hairstyle now makes sense to me.

Upon seeing the following images, I can now see why the film’s hair stylist settled on this slightly wild do for Mr. Darcy, which seems to be a compromise between a severe clipped hair style and the stylish “frightened owl” hairdo below.

The ”frightened owl” hairstyle was achieved through infrequent hair washing (as infrequently as every few months) and the use of hair wax, which helped to create the wild and unruly volume.

The models for Regency men’s hairstyles: Caesar, Titus, and Brutus

Popular styles in the late 18th century were the Caesar, Titus, and Brutus. The Coup au Vent was short at the back and worn long over the eyes at the front.

Caesar cut. You can almost see the laurel leaves on his head with this brushed forward Caesar cut. Portrait of an unnamed man, ca. 1810-20

The Cherubin, like the Bedford Crop, sported short curls all over (the Caesar was clipped even closer.)

Bernier by Ingres, 1800. You can see the all over cropped unruly look. The sideburns in all these images are long, but the men are clean shaven.

The Classically influenced Titus was cropped short everywhere but at the front with curls combed forward onto the forehead to resemble the Roman Emperor Titus.

Balding men benefited from the close cropped, forward brushed styles. c.1815. Louis Francois Aubry. Monsieur Rivio Baritone in Paris Opera

The more severe Brutus was even more clopped than the Titus. One of the most popular hair styles of the day, though, was the Brutus, a disheveled style that Beau Brummell and his followers wore.

John Opie’s 1802 portrait of Edmund Lenthal Swifte shows a few artfully arranged locks over the forehead.

These hairstyles took a great deal of time and patience to achieve. Men used an oil or pomade made of bear fat to achieve a natural “tamed” wildness. (Scented pomades were called Pomade de Nerole and Pomade de Graffa.) Since hair was rarely washed, night caps were worn to prevent soiling pillows and doilies protected the backs of chairs.

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